New Designer Anastasia Miu-About Her New Collection!
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You'd probably think that the mind behind the collection would be mine, but actually it's more than that, it's a bit of everyone that had an impact towards me in every stage of my life.
My collection is inspired by our ancestors, be it family members or important figures in fashion and their archives. I just took their stories and creativity, put them all together like puzzle pieces and built this new story. This way everyone got the chance to be the "mind" of the collection, from my great grandparents to my parents and also my inspirations in fashion, such as Maison Margiela, Raf Simons, Issey Miyake. Everything I put out there is based on archives.
How does this collection reflect your personal design aesthetic and philosophy?
The fact that it's raw, the use of solid shapes and structures, the colour scheme which has playful touches but it's mostly sober. Everything I did is very personal, from the general aesthetic to the theme. I usually try to combine more ideas and different areas in my projects so that they have more depth. In this one, the ideas went from my own archives, the struggles of my ancestors to give me a better life today, to making a better future for our children and protecting the environment, to fashion archives and how revolutionary the minds of great designers are and how we can remember them today.
These are all themes I'm passionate about and that I constantly learn of, and I like to think that I maybe inspired the public to stop and think about our past while watching the show.
Can you share any insides about the creative process behind this collection?
The creative process was full of learning and I believe it offered me the chance to grow. As the project was evolving so was I. I was lucky to be surrounded by people who helped me through all the stages and I'm thankful for each and every one of them.
The research is the base of everything, reading, watching documentaries, looking through the latest collections and making trend studies, building a strong base for the future collection.
Then it gets to the fun part, drawing anything that goes through your mind, letting all the ideas flow and selecting the best for the final cut.
People might be surprised that for the few outfits they see on the runway there are maybe hundreds of sketches that didn't make it.
Figuring out the sewing patterns and perfecting them, finding the right fabric, sewing then having to do it all over again because you missed a step, you learn a lot about making mistakes and how to fix them.
It's a tough process at times but seeing it come together in the end makes it all worth it.
What are the segniture looks from the collection?
It's a tough question to answer, as all the looks encapsulate my visual identity and are very specific to me, I believe. Every outfit has a quirk but I would say the puffer elements got to become a signature style of mine lately, as I've come to familiarise with the volumes and shapes they create. I chose the last look specifically to be the most visually impacting one, the most voluminous and representative for the entire project.
Are there any specific cultural or social issues that inspired or inFluence this collection?
The most significant issue that inspired me would be the global warming crisis. It affects us daily more and more and the future generations could struggle terribly if we don't take action.
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries and it's our job to be aware and mindful when creating.
The puffer items i made were to resemble warmth, suggesting the world getting warmer each day, some fabrics are thrifted (look nr1. is entirely made out of thrifted shirts and denim) and some belonged to my grandfather who was passionate about garment making. All of the scraps from the collection were saved and I have a lot of plans with how I'll recycle them.
There is so much to learn about sustainability and turning something already existing into something new is so thought provoking and fun.
Were there any particular muses or icons that inspired the overall aesthetic?
The main muse for the collection is my grandmother. She is present in all aspects of it. Her kindness, knowledge and strength were there to support me throughout the entire process. She told me so many inspirational stories about the photos she showed me, that later served as research on my family archive. How her parents first lived in Bulgaria, moved to Tulcea and then to Constanța in search for a safer future, how she and my grandpa build their house from scratch, how they taught many generations of children at the school they worked at, she went through so much but despite that she always had a positive attitude and a smile on her face.
I deeply admire her strength and I'm so lucky to have her in my life.
Can you discuss any symbolism or hidden meanings behind certain prints, patterns, or motifs in this collection?
For the collection I actually learnt how to crochet, as my great grandmother would for her children and grandchildren out of necessity. I actually have an adorable picture of her making clothes, with my mother's framed baby picture on the wall behind her.
Another thing would be the choice of suits and shirts reinterpreted, symbolic for the preferred attire of my grandparents. They were teachers and had an important role in their community, they had to be presentable role models for little ones to look up to.
The forth look consists of a pinstripe puffer jacket, resembling a suit that my grandfather had. The puffer was made with the sewing pattern of a suit, and the pinstripe vertical lines are sewn on the fabric, all over the jacket.
The ripped tights were used to suggest the passing of time and how it alters things that were once intact.
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Can you highlight any unexpected or unconventional styling choices for this colection?
As designers have to be mindful of the past but also anchored in the present moment, I chose to add balaclavas as a styling piece, regarding the recent events that are sadly happening in Ukraine. During the Crimean War, British troops were sent handmade balaclavas to help fight the cold weather. The headpiece was later named after the Ukrainian port town Balaklava.
Check them here !